Glenn Martens, creative director at Maison Margiela, presented his first Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Paris Fashion Week. What was new was not just the apparel, but the show itself. It embodied the avant-garde spirit that has long defined Maison Margiela.
Even though invitations for the show were shaped like recorder flutes, hinting at the evening’s theme, no one anticipated what followed. Young musicians in formal tuxedos were the first to step onto the catwalk. The children’s orchestra, their faces intensely focused, performed classical pieces — from the score of «2001: A Space Odyssey» to Prokofiev’s «Dance of the Knights» and «The Blue Danube.» The striking musical accompaniment provided a stirring atmosphere for the collection, alluding to the house’s archival shows.
However, the child musicians weren’t the main visual focus of the show; instead, the metal braces affixed to the models’ mouths — emblems of the restraint and anonymity central to Margiela’s aesthetic — took center stage. The accessory ignited a fierce reaction on social media, with even longtime brand loyalists deeming it controversial. Some labeled it repulsive.
The collection featured trench coats, leather jackets, shiny tights, classic suits, silk dresses, flowing shirts and denim — Martens’ signature material. New pieces included a soft Box Bag with metal inserts and jewelry in transparent plastic. The designer also reintroduced archival elements, such as hidden wedge heels and Margiela Future sneakers, which were popular in the 2010s.
While social media buzzed with criticism, critics praised Martens’ innovative approach. According to international experts, Maison Margiela, under his leadership, continues to evolve its avant-garde aesthetic, blending intellectual appeal with contemporary street fashion.
